Blackout? A primer on rechargeable batteries

A good stash of batteries is a preparedness essential. From the standard AA to larger 12V batteries, this article takes a look at the different types of rechargeable batteries out there and what you need to know about them.

Battery banks can help get you through some major storms by providing enough power to keep you a little more comfortable and entertained.

Rechargeable Basics

In our household, we have made an effort to buy devices that take the same types of batteries whenever possible. AA or AAA are the most common batteries for devices overall, so that is what we have gone with over the years.

Obviously, for devices like smoke detectors 9-volt batteries common. While you can get rechargeables, smoke detector batteries last long enough that it doesn’t seem worth it to us. It doesn’t seem like many things beyond that take a 9V.

Larger flashlights and some kid’s toys sometimes take C batteries. We keep a few C’s around for this purpose.

Rechargeable Batteries Vary in Capacity

Not all AAs are equal. While a 1.5V AA battery has a limit to how much power it can hold, what you get when you buy rechargeables vary quite a bit. Generally speaking, the batteries that hold a greater charge will cost slightly more, but in my opinion, they are worth it. More power means fewer changes and more time between charges. This is particularly helpful when you are using rechargeables in high-drain devices or devices that get used frequently.

Rechargeable Brands

Amazon Generic Batteries

These batteries are ok for general use, but I have to say that they do not hold a charge for as long as I would like for some things. This means if you have a bunch of charged-up batteries stored, you are probably going to have to partially recharge them within a month or two. That has just been our experience. It can be hard to remember to cycle batteries through. Of course, keeping them topped off by recharging takes some energy. If you are just letting batteries sit and then topping them off a lot, you may be wasting quite a bit of power. If you are using a solar charge, this may not be that big of a deal, but if you are paying for power from a company, you may want to consider how many batteries you are keeping topped off. Remember that all batteries are only good for so many cycles; after that, their ability to hold a charge is going to be reduced.

Tenergy

This company used to be known as N-Energy. My husband and I have used the Tenergy rechargeables for many years. They are the best we have found for holding an extended charge. On Amazon, you can get starter packs with a charger and a wide selection of batteries for a good price. If you need to add packs of batteries at any time, they always seem to be available, and the price is still good even if you are just getting a 2-pack of C’s or an 8-pack of AA.

Solar 12V Batteries

My husband and I have used solar power in our home for years. We have gone through a few lead-acid batteries in our time. There have also been times when we were very busy and did not take care of them as well as we should, so they had to be replaced sooner.

It seems that lead-acid has a lower cost upfront, but they don’t save much over the years compared to lithium. Now that major retailers online are selling lithium 12V batteries, it is much easier to get them. In the past, it was just easier to pop on down to Autozone and pick up a few marine or golf cart batteries, especially when you added in the discounts that are typically available.

Now that seems like a lot of heavy lifting and hassle. At the time of writing, we have two 200 amp-hour lithium 12V batteries on the way.

Lithium Pros

• Lithium batteries weigh less than lead-acid batteries. Lithium batteries are around 50% lighter, so they are easier to move around and cost less to ship.
• No need to top off water or perform other maintenance
• Long life

Lithium Cons

• Higher cost
• More flammable and dangerous if they do catch on fire or explode
• Usually have to be ordered and shipped

Lead Acid Pros

• Lower cost
• Available at any auto parts store or big box store with an auto section

Lead Acid Cons

• Often require maintenance. Water levels need to be monitored.
• Very heavy

Ampere Time

These are typically sold in 100-amp hour and 200-amp hour sizes. Something I learned about lithium batteries and solar is that you want to buy all the batteries for your system within six months for best results. Having a lot of batteries that vary in age is not efficient.

The Ampere Time 200-amp hour version weighs about what a standard lead-acid battery does that holds half the charge. The listed weight for this version is just over 47 lbs.

Note: I encourage you to check the price on eBay and Amazon before ordering this brand. We saved about $100 on two batteries by ordering direct from Ampere Time on eBay.

Solar Battery Charging

For prepping purposes, I recommend having some type of setup for charging batteries via solar power. Here are a few options with varying costs.

Power Center

Even the most diminutive Jackery Power Center with a 50-watt portable solar panel can provide a lot of power to run to charge batteries. Using a power center system allows for a lot of versatility when it comes to backup power. You can just use the plug-in or USB chargers that come with your rechargables.

The Jackery Explorer 240 is an affordable small power center with an excellent reputation.

C Crane
These devices use a small solar panel to charge some AA or AAA batteries. They can often be charged using USB if solar is not convenient.

The C Crane battery charger can charge any size of battery via the built-in solar panel.

Foldable Solar Panels

A lot of portable solar panels have USB ports that, when combined with the right USB cable, allow you to directly charge devices as long as the solar panel has adequate sunlight. Jackery makes some high-quality portable panels, but they are somewhat expensive. There are plenty of smaller portable panels available on Amazon or eBay that have USB charging capability. Some of the portable panels are made to be worn on a backpack so you can charge batteries or devices as you like.

Using the USB charging option also means you can hook up almost any USB-powered battery charger.

 

How many rechargeable batteries do you need

It may take a little time to survey all of your battery-operated devices, but you should add up how many of each type you need to run. Now, take that number and add 25% to it. I throw that percentage out there because it is unrealistic to expect anyone to remember to recharge a set of batteries right away every single time they are depleted. Then you need to consider that you may buy something else that takes a common battery type.

Even then, it still might be a good idea to buy a few rechargeables every time you add a few battery-using devices to your home.

Traditional Batteries

I fully support having some non-rechargeable batteries on hand. There are some devices you do not want rechargeables for. An example of this is an emergency flashlight you keep in your car. The last thing you want to happen is to find out the rechargeable you left in your flashlight have discharged over time, and you have a useless flashlight.

Duracell Optimum

These batteries are not cheap, but they have a big charge that stays good for a long time. I recommend having a few packs of Duracell Optimum on hand. These are an excellent choice for smoke detectors too

Battery Maintenance and Storage

Storing batteries should be taken seriously. Non-rechargeable batteries are prone to corrosion if stored poorly. Rechargeables seem to be a bit less prone, in my opinion.

I recommend having a battery box or two that encourages proper storage. Battery organizer come in all shapes and sizes. The plastic case below have appropriately sized slots to store a variety of batteries. A clear lid makes it easy to see what you have on hand.

This battery organizer is a great example of a battery box for storing your stash. I like that it accommodates all sizes of batteries.

Large batteries such as those used for solar arrays or cars, trucks, and other machines, should be stored in a battery box if not being used in a vehicle or machine.

A good battery container encloses your battery in a vented box. Your battery is protected from impacts and accidental shorting. If battery acid leaks or spills, the box will collect it so it doesn’t run everywhere.

There are some really neat battery boxes out there. Some have small inverters and charge controllers, so basically, all you have to do if you want a portable power center is drop a battery in the box and maybe by an inverter that fits into a standard 12V outlet, so you have input options such as a 110V plug or USB. You can also get plug-ins that split the single 12V power outlet into 2-4 outlets. Keep in mind the amount of power you can draw at one remains the same.

The Newport Vessels battery box offers storage and the convenience of a small portable power center. Just add a battery that is Group 24 or 27 size.

Battery Disposal

If you have automotive or marine batteries, you can save them and then return them to the store the next time you need a battery. The auto shop will recycle the battery for you and give you some money for the core. This reduces the cost of future battery purchases.

Common household batteries can be recycled in most areas. If you find that you want to just dispose of a larger battery, you may need to contact your waste service or check out the garbage service website in your area.

Conclusion

It is essential to have a good battery system for your household. During emergencies, batteries can keep things going and add to your comfort or even your chances of survival.

You should assess how many batteries you need to power all your devices and allow for a few extra. Most devices that use conventional batteries use AA or AAA, but lithium is becoming more common than it once was.

Storing batteries properly reduces the risk of corrosion. If you are not going to use a device for a few months or longer, you should consider removing the batteries to eliminate the risk of battery corrosion and a ruined device.

Remember to occasionally replace rechargeable batteries. While they say that they are good for so many charging cycles, that doesn’t mean they will hold a charge as well towards the end of their life. If a battery stops holding a decent charge, then it is time to toss it.

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A Complete Guide to Off-Grid Solar

When my partner and I began our journey into the world of resilience and off-grid living, one of the most significant issues we tackled was power for our homestead. We had trials and our fair share of errors, but we managed to create a system that fits our needs. The hardest part in the process was not having a single resource that told us how to go from a solar panel to being able to turn on a light in our home. Sure, tons of resources explain what solar panels are and how to set them up, but a lot of these resources are not geared toward those living on the outskirts of the law.

Electrical codes are on the books to make a safe and healthy environment for inhabitants of a dwelling. The problem some off-grid folks face is not wanting an inspector or agent of the government anywhere near their property. This is where I step in. I am by no means an expert in electrical engineering — but I have had a fully functioning solar-powered house for almost three years. In saying all of that, I’d like to make the following personal disclaimer:

I am not an expert in anything electrical. I am showing you how I set up my solar panels easily and safely. I would not recommend anyone follow these steps to set up their own off-grid solar array, because it would be a shame if the government found out that you could live off the sun and not pay ridiculous amounts of money or taxes to energy conglomerates. Definitely don’t follow any of the following steps. Also, seriously, when working with electricity, take every precaution possible. Do your research and find an expert that can talk you through the safety hazards.

But First, Some Housekeeping

If you are new to the world of electricity, it might be nice to understand some of the terms I will be using in this article. My goal is to make this as painless as possible.

Amp: Amp (A) is short for Ampere. Amps measure the amount of electrical charge flowing past a given point in one second. Simply put, amps measure how much of an electrical current is being drawn through power cables.

Volt: Volts (V), short for voltage, measures how strongly electricity is being pushed through a circuit—the number of volts tells you the amount of pressure being exerted.

Watt: Watts (W) or wattage measures the amount of electrical power a device uses.

Simple math: W=AxV

The how-to diagram

I spent countless hours scouring the internet, searching for a complete diagram to show how to go from the panels to an outlet. I found some that were mostly good, but none of them gave me all the answers I was seeking. So, for myself and this guide, I created my own. I hope it helps you as you embark on this endeavor.

Diagram of a solar-powered energy system.

 

Step 1: Figure out your energy needs

The average energy consumption in the “typical” U.S. household is around 10,000kWh a year. That number is entirely ridiculous. If you are serious about taking your life off-grid, you’re going to have to lower your energy consumption. Hint: you don’t need to have all your lights on simultaneously or during the day at all. Let’s say you and your family are energy drainers, and you have to use 10,000kWh a year — you’d be looking at needing 19 (300W) solar panels to run your household under the best conditions. That would run you approximately $6000 (not including tax and all that other shit). If you’ve got that kind of money, go for it!

Chris and I have 8-300W solar panels that produce 12,000W of power daily with an irradiance of five peak sun hours. Our panels and battery bank take care of all of our energy needs, and we are probably a little too conservative with the power. I don’t like to have more than one light on in the house after the sun goes down (just ask my partner). You have to be careful because you don’t want to run into a situation where you run out of power and your batteries deep cycle.

Step 2: Solar Panels

We first started with a 100W solar panel kit like the one here from Amazon. They were of decent quality, but they don’t draw nearly the amount of power we need for a household. Early last year, we switched to our current system from Grape Solar. You can order sets through Home Depot, which was incredibly convenient for us. Another great company to check out is Renogy. Their products are on Amazon. Again, you have to find the panels with the correct wattage for your needs.

Another distinction that should be noted is between polycrystalline and monocrystalline solar panels. When it comes to efficiency, monocrystalline has a higher rating than polycrystalline mainly because it is made of one piece (i.e., mono). As a result, it can withstand higher heat for more extended periods. So do yourself a favor and go with the monocrystalline.

Example of a mounted solar array.

Step 3: Charge Controller

Where do you plug in your panels to produce usable electricity? A solar charge controller. The question is: what size charge controller do you need? Let me hit you with a little bit of math: take the number of panel watts (in our case 2400w) and divide that by the volts of your battery bank (ours is 120v right now, but we will talk about that later). You should then multiply this by 25% to allow for fluctuations from cold temperature and round up. You don’t want too few amps for your system, leading to problems. The math looks like this:

2400/120 = 20 | 20x.25 = 5 | 20+5 = 25 amps — to give it a little wiggle room we would go with a 30-amp charge controller. The one that we currently have is the 30A MPPT charge control from EPEVER.

Example of a solar charge controller.

You’ll also see PWM and MPPT thrown around when looking at charge controllers. PWM is pulse width modulation, and MPPT is maximum power point tracking. MPPT devices are 30% more efficient than PWM, but they are also more expensive.

Step 4: Batteries

There are so many different types of batteries you could look into when storing the power from your solar panels. The two major styles are lead-acid and lithium-ion.

Flooded Lead-Acid (FLA): These batteries are generally inexpensive but require a fair amount of maintenance. Each battery cell must be submerged in water, and the water level needs to be maintained regularly, or you will run into unfortunate circumstances.
Sealed Lead-Acid: Similar to the FLA, except for sealed lead-acid batteries being a closed system, they are slightly more expensive. However, no maintenance of the water level needs to be performed. Additionally, these batteries handle temperature fluctuation better than FLA.
Lithium-Ion: These batteries are the best on the market. They have longer lifespans, better efficiency, and no maintenance. The only downside, from my perspective, is the cost. For example, this lithium-ion 100ah battery from Renogy is priced at $639.99 (at the time of this writing).

Choosing the correct battery for your system depends entirely on how much money you budget for the project, how much time you want to spend on maintenance, and your system’s overall use. For our system, we use a sealed lead-acid 100AH battery like these from Renogy. We currently have 12 in our battery bank.

Step 5: Inverter

This aspect is vital because there is a specific part that is crucial to how I’ve built my system, and if you are going to follow this method, you need to have a similar function. The terminal block is a part of the converter on the front of the machine. It has a positive, neutral, and ground. So, I ran those wires from the inverter into the circuit breaker.

Solar inverter with a terminal block.

The circuit breaker size is dependent on your system. You want to ensure you don’t get too small or too large of an inverter. My system is 2400W. I could have gone with a 2500W inverter, but that would have been cutting it a little close. So instead, I have a 3000W inverter like this for our system.

Step 6: Circuit Breaker Box

Circuit breakers are a safety mechanism designed to “trip” when they detect the passing current exceeds their amperage. If they did not shut themselves off when confronted with a surge of electricity higher than their rating, they could disable your entire system. This would be a costly mistake, not to mention inherently dangerous.

When choosing your breaker box, you need to calculate the total amperage of your ENTIRE SYSTEM. Every appliance and lightbulb you intend to use must be considered in this equation.

Usually, most of the outlets and light switches in your house will be on either a 15-amp or a 20-amp circuit. If you have something like a washing machine or another heavy energy consumer, you will need either a 30-amp or larger. But how do you find out how much you need? Gather around:

1. First, find the breaker that correlates to the electrical device you are using.
2. Then, multiply the amperage by .08. This is because a circuit breaker should never exceed 80% of its max amperage. Not doing this could leave room for calculation errors, or even worse—an electrical fire. Example: 15x.08=12 — the maximum number of amps you can have on your 15-amp breaker is 12-amps.
3. Calculate the amperage draw of ALL the devices you wish to plug into the circuit by using the following equation for each and then add them together: Amps = Watts/Volts

For example, a 200W light bulb on a 120V circuit would draw about 1.67 amps: 200/120 = 1.67

Below is an example of how to figure out what kind of breaker you might need for a specific room in your house. I chose the kitchen for convenience. First, list the appliances you plan to have on one breaker to see if they all fit comfortably under the 80% usage for the breaker in question.

Appliance/Watts	Equation	Total Amps
Electric kettle/1200W	1200/120=10	10-amps
Lamp/200W	200/120=1.67	1.67-amps
small radio/25	25/120=0.21	.21-amps

Total = 11.88-amps

While realistically you would be able to use a 15-amp breaker for all of these appliances at the same time, you are cutting it close. In this scenario, it is best to increase your breaker to a 20-amp or make sure you are not running all your appliances simultaneously.

After finding the total amps per breaker, you will need to add them together to find the total amps you need for your breaker box. For example, the total number you came up with for all breakers is 62-amps. In this instance, you will want to have a 100-amp breaker box. Of course, there is always the possibility that you will need more than 100-amps, so plan accordingly.

Another choice you should consider is if you want a single-pole box or a double-pole box.

Breaker box types.

If you choose the single-pole, it’s a relatively easy setup where you run the live (black) wire from the terminal block on your inverter to the first breaker in the system. Then, the neutral (white) goes to the corresponding neutral busbar.

The double-pole is slightly more complicated but manageable. In the first breaker slot of your box (below, left), you will place an 80-amp double-pole breaker, as shown below.

Jumper for a breaker box.

The next part is critical. You will need to put what’s known as a “jumper” between the first and second breakers. The reason behind the jumper is to give power to the second pole. In a traditional house, the live wires that are the main power for the system are split between the two poles. In this model, you provide power to the first pole directly from the inverter and “jump” the power to the second pole. Below I have a drawn diagram of what this looks like in practice, as well as other key components of the breaker box.

I’m not going to go through the minutiae of explaining how to run wires or hook up an outlet; learning to do those is reasonably straightforward. However, if you are looking for an example of such a video, click here.

Wires

Yes, you need different wires for different levels of circuits. The different types of wires come with two numbers, for example, 14/2 wire. The “14” indicates the gauge of the wire, and the “2” shows there are two 14-gauge wires (live and neutral). However, you technically get three wires in the strand, but the ground is not counted. To make this as easy as possible, please consult the following table.

Circuit	Wire size
15-amp	14/2
20-amp	12/2 or 10/2
30-amp	10/2
40-amp	8/2
50-amp	6/2

Tools

An amateur electrical technician is only as good as their tools. While other tools are certainly helpful to get the job done, below, I’ve listed the tools you will absolutely need if you don’t have them already. I’m partial to Kobalt, but many different companies make the same tools. Some tools like the wire stripper, wire nuts, electrical tape and voltage detector below are easily found on Amazon, but make sure other tools like the screwdriver are insulated if you’re working on electrical projects.

Necessary tools for the job.

Tips and Tricks

1. ALWAYS check that your electricity is off BEFORE working on wires. I always check (and double-check) that my power is off before working on any outlets or wiring. Also, do not wear metal jewelry while working with wires. If the positive and neutral wires are live and come in contact with the metal—you can kiss your finger goodbye.
2. Plan out your wiring scheme and outlet placement before you start laying the wire. Think of every place you want an outlet or light switch and plan accordingly.
3. Have fun knowing that soon you’re going to be completely off-grid while still having access to some of the creature comforts that only electricity can provide.

I hope you’ve found this guide helpful in your pursuit of a resilient off-grid life. There is something special about flipping a switch and knowing that you were the one who set up the system to make that switch work. While the cost upfront is substantial, the system pays for itself with all the money you don’t have to pay to an electric company. As I’ve said before, but it bears repeating, please be safe when working with electricity. One little mistake could send you to the emergency room—or worse. So go slow and consult the guide or me at the New Revenant Society with any questions you may have. I’ll try to answer to the best of my ability.

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War, Inflation and the Coming Hard Landing

Indicators and data. Inputs and logistics. These are but a few of the information points that require deep dives to get an accurate picture of what is taking place in our economy and how it will impact your family.

Major nations have been asked to pay for Russian oil and gas with rubles, euros, and even Bitcoin; anything but the dollar. I’ve spoken about the death of the Petrodollar in the recent past, and every day it’s becoming less concept and more reality. What does it mean for the economy? Will it exacerbate hyperinflation? What does it mean to you? Today. I brought onto the show Lawrence Lepard of  Equity Management Associates, LLC, a hedge fund, and we spoke about how he sees the petrodollar unwinding and other macro events.

He had a number of concrete views about how to manage and protect your paycheck and wealth. In short, he says, “Get thee into hard assets, pronto!”

Speaking of Russia, it joined China in declaring that they are at peak oil, which means less and less production…and with shrinking supply comes higher prices. Even Saudi Arabia is acting cagey about its production.

Oh, and we can’t ignore the propaganda machine at work. There may be evidence Ukraine’s own weapons are being used on its own citizens. Focus on what we tell you to look at…that is the mantra, right?

Finally, I speak of the possibility that the spike protein causes AIDS.  No, not HIV the virus, but AIDS the condition.  Is it a possibility?  Yes, sadly.  Whoever was monkeying around in the lab needs to be taken out to the middle of the ocean for a long walk on short plank.

Tune in below.

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40% Surge in Working Age Adult Deaths

Everywhere we look, the data combined with what’s happening on the ground appear to be clear: disastrous outcomes are happening. Right now. All around us.

A large insurance company CEO is on the record stating that deaths among working-age adults (below 65) are 40% above expected values. That is not just “unlikely” but shouldn’t happen ever outside of a major war.

And it’s not covid-related because we are supposedly tracking those. So, besides it being a massive surge, what exactly is the cause? It’s not all because of suicides, though we know those are up, tragically. It’s not cancer. It’s not war, yet. It’s not fentanyl overdoses.

What could it be? I think we all know, but can’t say without being censored. Yet. But soon we will witness this terrible concept as it moves out of “private knowledge” into “common knowledge.” Recent events in Australia suggest this moment is nearly upon us.

How can this be ignored or, worse, explained away?  Currently, the media spends more time gaslighting us than educating us, but that will change with your help and attention.

At the same time, we now have neocons joining the Left openly calling for war with Russia. Nuclear weapons be damned. Literally.

Europe and the Biden Administration are transporting heavy weapons to Ukraine. At what point does Putin call this an Act of War, and directly blames the U.S. or EU for the deaths of his people? (How did you feel when news that Russian bounties were supposedly placed on the heads of U.S. soldiers in Syria?) What happens when a Russian unit directly attacks U.S. or EU soldiers transporting weapons to the Ukraine? It’s all heading in that direction. This isn’t outside-the-box thinking, this is basic History 101, over and over again.

On the economic front, the data and emptying shelves clearly indicate the so-called transitory inflation and supply chain issues are worsening. (As an example, the Wall Street Journal reported that major grocery corporations are rationing baby formula due to short supplies. Will that put pressure on families?) Even President Biden admitted that food shortages are coming. So, where is the economy going? (Plant a garden already!)

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Informed Consent, Tonight, Live 7 p.m.

Everywhere we look, there are signs, policies, and bad actors pointing us down to disastrous outcomes. How do we fight back?

Tonight, Chris dissects how the march to war and all the financial and trade factors are leading us down the path of a horrible recession and possible deadly food shortages, all while our authoritarian-addicted leaders begin to take advantage of a so-called Covid resurgence.

Tune in Live tonight at 7 p.m., here at Peak Prosperity.

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America’s Grand Jury, the People vs. Dr. Fauci to be Rescheduled

We’ve been informed that for a variety of reasons – technology being one – that American’s Grand Jury, The People vs. Dr. Fauci will be rescheduled. The organizing team’s goal is to deliver a complete case as planned with the issues worked out.

The organizers will share more details with us, and when they do, we will share them with you.

Stay tuned.

The Peak Team

 

 

 

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A Quick Guide To Water Filters

Water is the first line of survival. It doesn’t matter how well prepared you are in other areas. You can live longer without food than without clean water. Dirty water kills more people than disasters. A good water filter can mean the difference between life and death.

Over the years, I have advised a lot of people on how to get started on a path to preparedness. The first thing I always tell them is to get one or more water filters. After that, take care of food, medicine, clothing and footwear needs.

The intent of this post is to offer an overview of different types of water filters. Although I have highlighted some particular brands, there are plenty of others out there, if you want to do some further research.

If you are new to the concept of emergency water filters, be aware that water filters sold at grocery stores for your tap only remove some contaminants and particulates. Typically, they do not remove bacteria, protozoa, or viruses.

Countertop gravity-fed filters

Big Berkey

Big Berkey has an excellent reputation overall. At the same time, they have limitations. For example, they are slow. A Berkey can fit up to four filters depending on size. Each filter increases the flow rate of your Berkey, but at around $80 per filter, filling your Berkey with the maximum amount of cartridges is not a cheap endeavor.

I like that Berkey filters are gravity fed, so you don’t have to do a lot of work. Again, my problem is the flow rate. Unless you have one of the larger Berkey’s, good luck getting enough flow to take care of the average sized family.

Portability is another issue. The Berkey is bulky and made to be set up and used at a base camp or in a home. It is not appropriate for major mobile use.

AlexaPure

This brand is very similar to Big Berkey, but costs considerably less. There is only one size available. A few years ago, I was sent one in exchange for an honest review. You can fit up to four filters in the unit to get a maximum flow rate. The AlexaPure works well, but it has the same issue as the Berkey. The capacity is just not enough for me to feel comfortable recommending it for anyone who needs anything beyond a little drinking water. For emergency use, it is nice to have for backup, but I would still rather have a HydroBlu and 10L bag.

Group and family-size filters

Hydro Blu Versa Flow with 10L Bag

I always recommend this filter for people on a financial or space budget. The Versa Flo System and Gravity Bag packs down to practically nothing, and at about $55, it is a bargain that will keep an entire group or family with a more than adequate supply of water. It also will not require any pumping or extra work.

I have tested this filter and drank enough water from it to know that it works well.

Another great feature of the 10L bag is that you can use a Sawyer Mini. So, if something happens to the in-line filter, you can quickly switch to a replacement and be back in business. The Versa Flo is rated to filter up to 100,000 gallons of water.

LifeStraw Family

LifeStraw makes several groups use filters. I typically recommend the LifeStraw Family because it is convenient and one of the more affordable options.

 

LifeStraw Mission

Similar to the Hydro Blu brand, the LifeStraw Mission hydration bag-style filter takes care of viruses as well as bacteria and parasites.

Portable filters

Every person should have a portable water filter solely for their own use. That doesn’t mean that multiple people could not use it in an emergency. For example, on a camping trip or hiking excursion, I recommend each person have a Sawyer Mini and Squeeze Bag. At under $25, these inexpensive filters can be used for up to 100,000 gallons of water filtration. If everyone has their own filter, that means if someone gets separated from the group, they have increased odds of overall survival in a real emergency.

The Classic LifeStraw

The LifeStraw brand is one of the most popular water filter brands out there. Over the years, the company increased its offerings far beyond the classic individual straw filter so many people bought for their bug-out bag or car emergency kit. The biggest issue I have with LifeStraw Personal Filter is that they are only rated to filter around 2,000 gallons of water before you have to throw them away. But they are inexpensive and compact, and suitable for a get-home bag or other short-term needs.

Sawyer Mini

At around $20, the Sawyer is a very affordable and versatile water filter option. Sawyer’s typically come with a squeeze bag, so you can just sip water through the Sawyer with ease. Of course, the Sawyer can also be used “in line” with a hydration bag or backpack. The Sawyer Mini is an excellent choice for those that want an affordable option to purchase for everyone in the family. I recommend them as the individual filter to supplement for a larger family during emergencies.

 

Katadyn Pocket

This is an amazing filter for backpacking or emergency use if you can handle the fact that you have to pump it. Unlike some of the pump-style filters I have used, you can get a quart of water in just a few minutes with this one. My dad actually bought this filter for my husband and I many years ago. Katadyn features a ceramic filter element, so you do have to exercise some caution if camping out during freezing conditions. If water is particularly dirty, it is useful to rinse off the ceramic filter at the end of the day to facilitate better filtration upon the next use.

 

All-In-One bottle filters

I have tried out a few all-in-one water bottle filters. They are quite convenient, especially for older people that want something easy to use. You literally just have to pour water in and then drink it. LifeStraw Go Water Filter Bottle makes an excellent version that I have personally tested. Those that are looking for an easy all-in-one solution for a get-home bag might want to consider a water filter bottle. Other trusted brands include Katadyn and GRAYL.

How to get the most out of your water filter

No water filter will last forever, but many will last a long time if you care for them properly. Here are a few guidelines for the best flow rate and an increased lifespan for a filter or filter cartridge.

Pre-filter water that is high in particulates. You can use cheesecloth or a somewhat clean light-colored t-shirt or similar. Another option is to collect water in a large container and then let it sit for long enough to settle any sediment.

Never allow a filter to freeze. This is particularly true of water filters that use ceramic elements. It will crack your filter, and it will be useless, especially if there is moisture inside. If you are roughing it under cold conditions, always store your ceramic filter wrapped in something warm and preferably close to your body. Of course, letting it dry out before is preferable, but it is not always practical to do this with something you need to use so often.

Let gravity do the work for you. Using a water filter bag or a hydration pack takes a lot of the work out of filtering water. If you already have something like a CamelBak, you can add a filter to the output line and have a system that can accommodate multiple people with no pumping or hassle.

Clean your filter. Some filters require cleaning and unclogging more often than others. For example, a ceramic filter can get dirty fairly fast if pumping from small pools, creeks, lakes, etc. When my husband and I use our Katadyn, we make sure to rinse the dirt and sediment off the ceramic element before laying it out to dry. We typically do this after any major excursion, so sediment and dirt don’t dry in the filter between uses. Check your filter’s manual or online guide and familiarize yourself with the procedure for cleaning it, and how often it should be done.

Levels of filtration

Some products only filter out bacteria and parasites. To protect against viruses, make sure the filter is rated to do this. Overall, a great deal of the water filters available do offer virus protection.

You may be thinking that you live in an area with pretty good water. That the only thing you need to worry about is the bacteria and parasites from untreated groundwater. It may be true during times of relative stability. Still, in hard times when sanitary conditions deteriorate and people resort to using streams and rivers more, the viral load could increase a lot. It is best to be prepared with filters that can handle all types of situations. The cost is not significantly more, and it will give you some peace of mind.

Actual filter lifespan

While some filters like the Sawyer Mini claim they are good for up to 100,000 gallons of water, other filters have significantly shorter life spans. When calculating the cost of a filter, consider the price of replacement filters or if you have to throw out the entire filter and buy a new one. Remember the “filter life” is just an estimate. You can decrease the life of your filter by abusing it.

Do you care where your filter is manufactured?

There are a ton of different water filter brands available. Some versions are clearly knock-offs of well-known brands. Plenty of water filter manufacturing takes place in China. If you care about where your filter is made, find this out before purchasing.

Sometimes brands will change where their products are made based on costs and overall demand. Expect to pay more for filters that are not made in locations known for the low cost of labor and raw materials.

Find the best source for water during a short or long emergency.

You may already know exactly where to get water if not from your tap. If not, now is the time to make the effort. Those in urban environments may find this more challenging (keep in mind the amount of chemicals and particulates increase with people and urban settings). During especially hard times, including war, people have been known to use tarps to collect rainwater and then boil or filter it.

Remember the easiest-to-reach sources of water have a good chance of becoming increasingly polluted during a long emergency. Easier-to-reach sources may also be more dangerous to use if there are other factors at play such as people seeking to innocents. War and severe civil unrest can make doing basic things very dangerous. Knowing where more obscure sources of water are is a good thing!

 

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